Indian Accent - A Review

OVERALL RATING -

I have known Manish Mehrotra since 1993, when we were young school passouts entering hospitality college to pursue our dreams and follow our dreams. 18 years have gone by since then and it's amazing to see the strides he has taken and the way he has impacted the culinary landscape of New Delhi, if not India. Not a week goes by when I dont come across some media publication writing about him or his quotes on the trends of the eating joints. Though, I have, atleast in India gone to the restaurants he has setup and worked in, I missed going to Tamarai in London. My visit to Indian Accent, the fine dining restaurant in The Manor, neatly tucked away near the Friends Club in Friends colony, New Delhi was long overdue.

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I must say, my expectations were set really high and I was afraid the place would not stand the test of my high standards, and nothing but the best.
The first thing that strikes you, as you enter The Manor, is the warmth, courtesy and ethnicity of the staff. It carries itself very well through the dining experience and stays with you till you leave. Warmth like that comes from within, no training can teach you that. The service is impeccable and extremely infectious.
The menu at first looks a little too limited for the choices it presents, especially for the vegetarians,but once you go through the menu, you understand the pain that has gone behind each and every dish listed, the various permutations and combinations at the planning stage to get this to you. Any longer and we might have been confused. Each and every item needs to be understood, not just read through, letting your imagination run wild and tastebuds crazy at the mere thought.
The array of Indian dishes fused with a touch of foreign ingredients and styles are truly a not-to-miss experience. The Foie Gras stuffed Galawat has already made waves in the culinary circuit,but the tandoori chicken chaat with thai pomelo segments, crispy garlic or the potato sphere chaat with white pea ragda and kakdi or the chicken tikka quesadillas, gruyere and pink peppercorn raita are each an understated masterpiece. Come the main courses and each of the pre-plated delicacies are an experience that I will come back to again and again. The main course too offers an interesting choice ranging from Peanut Butter Chicken, Kasuri Methi Crisp and Lachha Salad to eight hour cooked Canadian pork belly with Vindaloo masala, Goan red rice. Dont skimp on the sides either and personally we loved the roast pumpkin and Cheddar Kulcha and will highly recommend it. Again we felt that the vegetarian fare was left wanting for more. Not because there was not much choice, but because nothing leapt out and surprised us, as was the case with the non-vegetarian part. Or maybe because the bar had been raised so high in so short an experience.
The desserts were an interesting selection, and even though the old monk rum ball was a let down (with all the hype) and the anar, churan kulfi was predominantly anar and more a sorbet(than kulfi), the baked coconut cheesecake and banana toffee pudding was out the world.
A meal for 2 can easily get you down by 4000/- to 6000/- (without alcohol) and is worth every penny.
In the end, Indian Accent is certainly a place that I can take a guest too and be sure the experience will blow them away. It is now the ideal place that I can take my overseas clients/guests to announce the arrival of the new Indian cuisine that is not closed but assimilates all cuisines within itself just as out culture has throughout history.
Kudos to Old World Hospitality and Chef Manish for creating a great foodie destination.


FOOD -
SERVICE -
AMBIENCE -

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Curried Garlic Custard

There's nothing to beat the arrival of rains after some intense heat. It only becomes better if you don't need to go to office or run any errands. A nice lunch (not too elaborate) and a good glass of wine is all you need and you can enjoy the rain from the cozy confines by the windows. I just did that sometime back and loved the feeling. We had juicy pork chops, with mashed potatoes and garlic custard on the side.
Though I have tried it before, this time I tried to get a little adventurous by adding some curry powder. The result was excellent. The creaminess only interrupted by a hint of spice playing on your tongue. It is also very easy to make and believe me you need to seriously work hard to get this one wrong.

Curried Garlic Custard
Ingredients
Garlic, peeled - 12 cloves
Milk - 300 ml.
Bay Leaf - 1
Salt - 1 Tsp.
Thyme - 1 Sprig
Eggs, whisked - 4
Cream - 250 ml.
Ground Black Pepper - 1 Tsp
Chilli Flakes - 1 Tsp
Curry Powder - 1 Tsp

Method:
1. Roughly chop the garlic cloves.
2. Take milk in a saucepan. Add in the chopped garlic, bay leaf and sprig of thyme. Put the saucepan on the flame and bring to a boil. Simmer for about 10 minutes. Take off flame and cool.
3. Take out the thyme sprig and bay leaf.
4. Puree the garlic with some milk. Push the mixture through the sieve.
5. Add in the whisked eggs and cream. Mix gently.
6. Add in the black pepper and chili flakes. Mix gently.
7. Divide the mixture into 6 ramekin or custard cups.
8. Sprinkle the curry powder on top of all ramekins.
9. Cover the ramekins with aluminum foil. Place the ramekins in a baking dish. Pour hot water into the baking dish so that it comes to halfway of the ramekins.
10. Bake at 160ºC for 35-40 minutes or till custard is set ( Will be a little wobbly).
11. Remove from baking dish and discard the foil. Serve warm.

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Indian Breakfast Classic - Chickpea flour pancakes

Childhood memories often revolve around mum's cooking and apart from delicious lunch and dinner fares, lazy sunday breakfasts had their own charm. Apart from butter soaked aloo paranthas, pancakes were a much sought after item. They are called by different names, like Chilla or Puda, and their base can be either semolina, bengal gram flour or moong dal, they have one thing in common - they are all tasty.

Thankfully, my better half makes chillas every now and then and it was but natural that this breakfast classic get a mention on this blog. If you haven't tried it out, please do.

Chilla - Chickpea flour pancakes
Ingredients:
Chickpea flour (Besan) - 250 gm
Semolina (Sooji) - 2 Tblsp (My better half adds this as this lends crispness to the finished product)
Green Chillies, finely chopped - 2
Carum Seeds (Ajwain) - 1 Tsp
Asafoetida (Hing) - A Pinch
Red Chili Powder - 1/2 Tsp.
Green Coriander, finely chopped - 1 Tblsp.
Water - 1 Cup
Oil - For frying

Method:
1. Place the chickpea flour in a bowl.
2. Add water to make a smooth batter (coating consistency). Whisk it to ensure there are no lumps.
3. Add in the carum seeds, asafoetida, red chili powder and green coriander to the batter. Whisk again to mix.
4. Take a flat bottomed skillet or flat pan/tawa and add some oil (a tsp.).
5. Once the pan is hot, pour a spoonful of the batter in the center and spread it in a circular form using the back of the ladle (start from the inside and continue working to the outside in circular motions of the hand, ensuring it does not remain thick in the center and is even).
6. Cook for 2-3 minutes on each side.
7. Remove the cooked chilla in a plate. Clean the pan/tawa of any particles.
8. Add in another teaspoon of oil and proceed to make another chilla. Continue till done.
9. Serve hot with mint chutney, pickle or your favorite ketchup.

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Peach Bread

Immortalized by folklore's, traditions and signature dishes (like the Peach Melba), the peach is a perfect summer food. Every year this time when I come across numerous vendors on the roadside with their huge piles of peaches and other fruits, I long to take this tasty treat home and use it one way or another.
It's quite another story that I need to really wrestle with my elder son who loves to have peaches raw and ends up finishing them before I get a chance to use them in a souffle or cake. The thing with Peaches is that you cannot refrigerate them as they lose their sweetness (personal experience - may be wrong) and the Delhi heat blast spoils them if kept out for long. So a quick approach is vital especially with the shelf life as well as my elder ones love for them.

Last week I thought of baking a peach bread. I still haven't got to used to the name though. It has a different ring and it may take time to get used to the name, but I loved the taste - it was a welcome difference to the usual banana bread and the variations I have tried with it.
As the summer progresses, I am expecting more and more juicier ones to flood the market and cannot wait to have my hands on them.
The Peach bread was a big hit in the household and the orders have started to flood in. My parents go on their vacation day after and I need to bake them some peach bread for their journey. I travel with wife and kids next week to Naldehra for a week's getaway and am contemplating taking some peach bread with me for the journey. It is a good eight hour drive from Delhi to reach Naldehra which is some 20 odd kilometers away from Simla and apart from wife and kids, I have my good college buddy Abhineet and his wife and daughter for company, so with 3 absolutely noisy kids in the car, some tasty peach bread will go a long way in not only providing good taste but the necessary energy to drive their moms crazy with their antics.

Peach Bread

Ingredients:

Peaches, cut into dices - 2 Cups (around 3 peaches should do)
Peaches, pureed - 1/2 Cup ( Around 2 Peaches should do)
Biscuit Crumbs (Marie or other digestive ones) - 1/2 Cup
All Purpose Flour - 2.5 Cups
Baking Powder - 2 Tsp
Baking Soda - 1 Tsp
Cinnamon - 1/2 Tsp
Raisins - 20-30
Salt - 1/2 Tsp
Yogurt, hung - 1/2 Cup
Soft Butter - 1/4 Cup
Eggs- 3
Sugar - 1 Cup
Vanilla Essence - 1 Tsp
Method:
1. Mix the diced peaches with 1/4 cup of sugar and let it soak for atleast 30 minutes.
2. Mix all the dry ingredients, except the sugar, in a large bowl.
3. In a separate bowl combine butter & hung yogurt. Whisk till well blended. Add in the 3/4 cup sugar and whisk till the mixture is smooth and creamy.
4. Slowly add in the eggs, one at a time. Beat each egg completely before adding the next one.
5. Add in the pureed peaches and whisk well to combine.

6. Add in the raisins and diced peaches (soaked in 1/4 cup sugar) . Mix together.
7. Add in the flour mixture and gently stir to combine.
8. Pour into a loaf pan. Place in a pre-heated oven at 200 degrees Celsius and bake for 60 minutes or till a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean.
9. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 10 minutes.
10. Remove from the loaf pan and cool on a wire rack. Cut and serve the slices.

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Badami Murg Masala (Chicken Curry in Almond Sauce)

After a subtly flavored and delicious cashew based chicken curry from down south, it was time for its northern cousin, the almond to make its presence known in a little spicy but rich North Indian gravy.
The almond is native to the Mediterranean region of the middle east and is extensively used globally in various cuisines lending itself to some tasty starters, delicious curries and mouth watering desserts.
Almonds have also been a part of the folklore, with gifting of five almonds during weddings represents health, wealth, long life, fertility and happiness. Then there is a Greek legend around this that young man called Demophon, who fell in love with a Tracian princess, Phyllis. Before the marriage ceremony Demophon is informed that his father has died in Athens and he must return for the funeral. He promises to come back by a certain day but does not return until three months have passed by. By this time Phyllis is sure that she will never see her lover, Demophon again and hangs herself. The Gods, touched by her love, transform her into an almond tree. The desperate Demophon goes to the almond tree and offers a sacrifice to the tree, declaring his undying love. In response to his gesture, the almond tree blossoms. Therefore the almond came to symbolize impetuous youth and immortal love.
Atleast in India, the common folk believe that eating almonds increases brain power. So it is not uncommon for people to remark to others (especially kids not doing too well in studies) to have almonds soaked overnight.

Now coming back to this recipe. You can try this variations. If you do not add tomatoes then this will become a Qorma (Korma). One can also add paste of roasted grated coconut to the dish and if you have time on your hands, try covering the dish during the later stages and sealing it with some dough to do a Dum.

Other Indian chicken recipes on this blog that are worth trying are:

Murg Handi Lazeez
Murg Malaaiwala
Chettinaad Kozhi Kozhambu
Murg Dahi Dhania Korma
Murg Peshawari
Murg Navratan
Murg Patiala
Murg Korma
Butter Chicken
Hyderabadi Anjeer Murgh
Murgh Kairi
Cashew Chicken Curry

Badami Murgh Masala

Ingredients:
Chicken Breasts, Boneless, cut into 1-Inch dices - 4
Onions, finely chopped - 3
Onion, finely sliced - 1
Ginger, finely chopped - 3 Tblsp
Garlic, finely chopped - 8 cloves
Fenugreek seeds - 1 tsp
Cumin seeds - 1 tsp
Cloves - 4
Coriander Powder - 1 Tsp
Turmeric Powder - 1 Tsp
Red Chili Powder - 2 Tsp
Garam Masala Powder - 1 Tsp
Green Cardamom -3
Black Cardamom - 1
Yogurt - 1 Cup
Almonds, ground into paste with 1/2 cup water - 20
Tomatoes, chopped - 3
Almonds, blanched and slivered - 8
Salt - To Taste
Black Pepper Powder - 2 Tsp
Lime Juice - 2 Tsp
Kewra - few drops
Oil - For frying and cooking

Method:
1. Marinate the chicken pieces with salt, black pepper powder and lime juice for 30 minutes.
2. Fry the onion slices till golden brown. Drain and keep aside.
3. In same oil fry the slivered almond pieces till they start to turn golden. Drain and keep aside.
4. In the same oil, add the chopped onions and fry till they start to turn golden.
5. Add in the ginger and garlic and cook for 2-3 minutes.
6. Add in the spices (fenugreek seeds, cumin seeds, cloves, green & black cardamom, turmeric, coriander, red chili and garam masala powder). Fry for 2 more minutes.
7. Add in the tomatoes and cook for 4-5 minutes.
8. Take off the flame and allow to cool. Blend the mixture in a food processor and strain into a clean cooking vessel. Return back to the flame.
9. Add in the chicken pieces and stir well so as to coat the chicken pieces with the mixture.
10. Cook for 15-20 minutes or until chicken pieces are tender.
11. Add in the almond paste and mix well. Simmer for 5 minutes.
12. Add in the beaten yogurt and mix well. Simmer for an additional 5 minutes.
13. Cook till the gravy has a saucy consistency and adjust seasonings. Add in the crushed fried onion slices and kewra.
14. Pour into a serving dish and garnish with some of the fried onion slices and almond slivers.
15. Serve hot.

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Cashew Chicken Curry

I came across this simple yet "Hatke" (different) chicken recipe sometime back. According to a friend who passed this on, this is a simple subtle chicken dish from down south, Kerala, to be more precise. This creamy, subtly spiced and rich dish is easy to make and as experience taught me, was a big hit with the kids, who despise the usual spicy fare.

The cashew is another example of the all accommodating India. It was not native to India and was bought to India by the Portuguese (from Brazil) in the mid 16th century and is now used extensively in Indian cuisines, lending creaminess to many shahi kormas and who can forget the "Kaju Katli", the sweet preferred by many over the usual barfi and ladoos.

Though I'm sure this curry, without the tempering at the end, will go very well as a pasta sauce too, I'm also seriously contemplating making a pie with this as a filling. But that, is for another post.

Cashew Chicken Curry
Ingredients:
Chicken breasts, cut into 1 inch pieces - 6
Salt - 1 Tsp
White Pepper - 1 Tsp
Cashews, soaked for 2 hours and drained - 2 cups
Onions, chopped - 2
Green Chillies, chopped - 2
Garlic - 8 cloves
Ginger, chopped - 3 Tblsp
Green Cardamom - 2
Cloves - 4
Cinnamon Stick - 1 (1 inch)
Yogurt - 1 Cup
Mustard Seeds - 1/2 Tsp
Curry Leaves - 6
Cashewnuts, cut into halves - 6
Red Chillies - 2
Salt - To Taste
Oil - 3 Tblsp

Method:
1. Dry roast the Cinnamon stick, cardamom pods and cloves slightly and grind to a powder.
2. Grind the 2 cups of cashews with onions, garlic, ginger and green chillies into a fine paste. Add 1/4 to 1/2 cup water before grinding to achieve a pasty consistency.
3. Sprinkle the chicken pieces with salt and white pepper. Fry the chicken pieces with 2 Tblsp of oil until seared. Do not brown the chicken pieces as it will change the gravy colour.
4. Lower the heat and add the cashew paste. Stir fry for a couple of minutes till the paste and chicken have combined.
5. Take the skillet off the flame and gradually add the yogurt while stirring continuously. Return to flame and keep stirring to combine. Cook till oil rises to top (3-4 Minutes).
6. Add in the ground spice powder and mix well. Cover with a lid and cook for 10 more minutes on medium flame. Add in water if required.
7. Adjust the seasoning and transfer the sauce and gravy to a serving dish.
8. In a small pan, heat 1 tsp of oil and add in the mustard seeds. As the seeds start to crackle, add in the cashew halves and fry till they start to turn brown. Add the curry leaves and red chillies. remove from flame and pour over the chicken dish. Do not stir to mix.
9. Serve hot with rice, malabari paranthas or appams.

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Street Foods of India - Ram Ladoo (Delhi)

Come winters in Delhi and a very different foodie tends to emerge. One that longs for a nice mid morning drive to pick up some Chhole Bhature, get it packed and rush home so that all can have a heavy brunch. Or, some hot aloo tikki in the evenings at the roadside chaat shop. Parties tend to get lively around the grill, with hot tikkas and kababs coming straight off it onto the waiting plates. I long for getting my share of ram ladoos during winters, and my perfect haunt for getting them - Lajpat Nagar market. Garnished with some freshly grated radish and generous helpings of coriander-mint-green chili chutney, they make for the perfect roadside snack for me.
I don't know why they are called Ram Ladoo. Some even call them Gulgullas, but these moong dal dumplings somehow take you back to the old world Delhi, when little money could buy you a good lavish evening, weekends were spent with people and not TV sets, life was far less complicated and snacks like these were the McBurgers for us.

Ram Ladoo

Ingredients:

Moong Dal, washed - 200 gm

Chana Dal - 100 gm

Soda BiCarb - 1 Tsp

Salt - To Taste

Green Chillies, finely chopped - 1

Oil - For Deep frying

Radish, peeled & grated

Cilantro, finely chopped

Mint Chutney

Method:

1. Wash the dals and soak the dals in water separately for 6 hours alongwith soda bicarb.

2. Drain the water and coarsely grind the dals without any addition of extra water. Note : Do not grind the dal to a smooth paste else the batter will not form into ladoos.

3. Add in salt and finely chopped green chillies. Beat the mixture till it gets a light and frothy.

Note: To check doneness of consistency required, drop a small ball of batter into a bowl of water. If it rises to the surface it is done, else, get back to beating it more.

4. Heat oil in a wok till it gets hot.

5. Using wet finger Lift a small amount of batter and drop into the hot oil. Fry till golden.

6. Remove from wok onto paper napkins to drain excess oil. Repeat till al batter is used or you have fried the ram ladoos required.

7. To Assemble : Put 2 ladoos in a bowl and top with grated radish, mint chutney and some chopped cilantro. (P.S. : I have added less of the chutney. Usually it is flooded with the chutney :) )

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